🔗 Share this article Each Culinary Artist Ought to Study Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Leading Restaurants. Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London. A Shocking Recognition This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly shocked. “I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list. A Appeal of Modesty The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner. A Signature Creation: Tantuni Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency. The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside. The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony. Beyond the Basic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour. Outranking the Stars Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations. While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price. A Philosophy of Heart It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner. “In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.” The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”. The Journey of Hard Work In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son. A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort. “Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects. An Accomplishment for the Culture This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.